Delhi, 21 years later
It is July 1990. It is hot. I am jet legged and travelled for 24 hours. First by train from Cremona to Roma. Then with an Air Jordan flight to Amman and connection to Delhi. I am with a group of four other friends and for me is the first time outside Europe. I am 23. My blue Invicta rucksack is the first to be delivered by the belts so I am sent out of the airport to check the bus situation. We are on a shoestring budget and a taxi is out of the question. I remember walking towards the sliding doors of the old international airport. Thinking that Rossignol, the character of the short story Notturno Indiano by Antonio Tabucchi that made us be here now, may have done the same (although he arrived in Mumbay). So I am walking, pass the nothing to declare desk. Few more steps and the sliding doors open. I remember hitting a heat wall when I stepped out. The rest is quite blurred an stereotyped: flies, an (imaginary I think) cow in the parking lot, old Ashok Leyland busses waiting for passengers, bajaj, many many taxi drivers jumping on me and the an overwhelming sense of too much taking control of me, making me turn around to re-enter the arrival terminal. Then I see me imploring the police officer to allow me in the exit door which in the end he allowed me to do. After that a long bus ride to the centre where I could barely keep my eyes open. The main railway station where me bought the India rail pass and the crazy and the incredibly long trip by train to Varanasi.
Today I landed in the new Terminal 3. Modern. Efficient. Silent. Carpeted corridors and huge Buddha hands decorating the passport control area. large parking lot. Skyways junctions. Large roundabout and three lanes roads to and from the airport. All is so modern. However as soon as with the hotel car we left the main road we entered the busy streets I remembered. Tiny shops and food stall with a single 100W bulb providing a trembling light. Bajaj, new aircon busses, traffic jams, people walking home wrapped in winter clothes and scarf covering their heads. Few metres from my modern hotel a tiny parking lot with a single dusty old Indian taxi which looks lost and abandoned. Next to it a small shack made of few bricks and wooden planks. Covered by a fragile plastic foil. Next to the door a child is warming up next to a fire where a pot is boiling water for the tea or rice. The same old Delhi 21 years later.
Wulffs unconventional Christmas address | Video of the day
Nice speech about people, solidarity, and respect. In my opinion it tells about the attempt by a country like Germany to recognize its multi-ethnic nature and the ways its shapes its society. We are all on the same journey here.
[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8O5fvmnHgM?fs=1&w=480&h=295]
President Wulffs unconventional Christmas address 2011 | Video of the day
Nice speech about people, solidarity, and respect. In my opinion it tells about the attempt by a country like Germany to recognize its multi-ethnic nature and the ways its shapes its society. We are all on the same journey here.
When do you leave? Quando parti?
When do you leave?. The question, when asked in English, has a broader meaning than the Italian: Quando parti?, which clearly refers to a trip, a travel, a rucksack which is being lifted on the shoulders to go to a railway station or an airport.
I think that Quando parti? (both in English and Italian) has been the question I have been asked the most after: How are you? Is this good? Is this bad? What does it mean?
I do not know why, but I thought about this yesterday, while wandering around the large mosque of Masjid Bandaraya (or City Mosque) here in Kota Kinabalu (in Eastern Malaysia). I enjoyed its silence. The large space that can accommodate up to 10.000 people. The view of the few people praying. Two friends talking to each other. A man sleeping on the carpeted floor. The noise of drops from the line of water taps taps in the room where the men wash their feet and hands before entering the prayers room. The soft wind blowing in gentle waves the white cotton fabric that defines the mysterious border of the area where women are allowed to pray. Hidden from other peoples eyes as it would be an unknown country where a different language is spoken.
All this gave me much peace inside. It reminded me of the same feeling in large cathedrals in the north of Europe, or the large mosque in Kuala Lumpur, or the great stupa of Boudnhat in Kathmandu. It also made me think that in order to feel that, it is necessary to travel, to leave, partire. Fill the rucksack, lift it on the shoulders, catch a plane and land in an unknown place and, inevitably, leave something behind.
Home, no home
“Welcome,Sir”. “Good evening,Sir”. I take a deep breath. End of today’s trip. I am home. But is it home? No, but these greetings are reassuring and familiar by now. They remind me of the country where I live now when I enter the lobby of the Marriot airport hotel in Manila. I recognise some of the staff as I have been here a few times now. Always arriving in the evening and leaving very early in the morning to catch the flight to Dumaguete. Yes, maybe this is a kind of home with its a/c controlled temperature, background music, people sitting at the bar sipping a beer, the studied politeness results of trainings of the staff of these high end hotels. Yet, there is something typical Filipino in the way the staff seem to take their job. Artificial or not, who cares, it is just good to be here and on the way home. Still, a faint inner voice voice tells me that I am just fooling myself. I do not belong to places like this. I am not the one for marble floors hotel’ lobby and lounge bars. A quick check and I cannot decide whether that voice is from the old me who once was backpacking and sleeping in hostels and who is trying to tell me that too much time has passed since the last REAL trip. Or the other hand it may be a much deeper voice, a me which has been shaped by events, words, character traits that along generations have reached me through genes and various types of influence. A deep rooted imprint of feeling less than others. I ask myself if the lady queuing at the reception desk next to me and who seems completely at easy with the atmosphere of this lobby has these thoughts as well. Her name maybe Mari An, born in Puerto Princesa, got good grades in school while her parents wanted her to start working in the family tailor shop. One brother and an older sister had done so. But she did not give up, git a scholarship, went to collage, had some boy friends but did not make herself distract by a love story. Finished among the top 5 of her management course and is now working and travelling for Unilever. I guess she feels she deserves this hotel and her status in society. “Checking in, Sir?”, the voice of the pretty young lady at the reception counter brings me back to the business: passport, credit card, signature, wi-fi code, key cards, thank you smiles.
I climb up to the fourth floor with the large elevator. A bellboy of the hotel is with me. In his twenties, pushing the cart with my two pieces of luggage. “From where did you come today, Sir?” “Saigon, from Saigon” “That is in Vietnam, isn’t it?” “Yes, it is.” We exit the elevator and walk long corridors, dim lights, soft carpet that absorbs the footsteps, an endless number of wooden doors. Some have the ‘Do not disturb’ sign hanging from the knob. As it is still quite early I imagine adventures and passion erupting behind those doors. “How is Saigon?” As I hear his question, my mind goes to the perpendicular streets junctions nearby the hotel where I stayed, the incessant flow of motorbikes, the gate of the Reunification palace, the catholic cathedral, the opera house, the Japanese K Cafe where I ate dinner. “Saigon is busy”, I say, aware that my answer is a poor translation of the images that are in my mind. So I try in another way. “How many people live in Manila?”, I ask. “Maybe 10 million”, he answers. “Saigon has 7 million and probably 5 million motorbikes. Try to imagine Manila full of motorbikes instead of cars. That is how Saigon is.” He pause as if would be imagining a different Manila, maybe seeing himself riding a motorbike instead of jumping on a Jeepney on the way to his small flat in Quezon City. We reach the room. He opens the door and takes the bags inside. I walk in, see the bed with its pillows and the Asian silk fabric with its soft colour rest on the white bed sheets. The room looks exactly like the book I am reading, Alain de Botton’s A Week at the Airport. A Heathrow Diary. The same bed. The Same glass desk. The same halogen lamps. The same contemporary modern design. Alain de Botton (whom, I admit, has inspired the style lf this blog) stayed in his week as resident writer at Heathrow stayed the Sofitel next to T5. Similar hotel, similar airport atmosphere. For a moment my mind travel to London where I will be next week. Do not know the name of the bellboy, but I wonder whether his mind is in the street to of Saigon, trying to imagine how they are.
Alain de Botton: A kinder, gentler philosophy of success | Video on TED.com
Hidden people
It is 7:00 in the morning. Sunday morning. We have Dumaguete, Manila,Hong Kong, the skies on China and Russia behind us. Helsinki is like a ghost town. As if all its inhabitants would have suddendly left or would have all be taken away during the course of the night by a alien forces from an unknown dimension leaving behind broken glasses, empty McDonalds paper cups swept by the autumn wind on the pavement.
We walk in this desert waiting for 10 o’ clock when we will catch the train. It is a straiking contrast with Asia where life is on every day of the week, people get up at sunset and life seems never to stop.
Another difference here is that there are mo stray dogs, no cats, just few pigeons. A tram with a solitary driver and few African migrants cleaning the pavements and preparing the tables of outdoor cafes on the Esplanadi.
One of them, wearing a white t-shirt, yellow kitchen gloves and a sad expression, tells us that the place will open only in one hour, so we move on.
We walk back towards the station. We take an escalator to the underground subway passage. An R-Kioski shop is open. In front of it two Africans who seem waiting for a departure which will never take place. We enter the R-kioski. Inside some homeless and drunken sipping coffee from cheap paper cups. One drunken guy, bold, and large bolts in his earlobes walks with a bag hanging in front of him and hanging from his shoulders. I saw him putting a pack of candies in the bag a pack of candies. Our daughters break the silent of the place, they are happy to get their juice and milk. I grow tense. This is a place where a fight can start at any time. Who seems even more out of place is the young girl who stands behind the counter. She seems to be in a summer job for students. She has nice blond hairs in a short a pony tail, expressive blue eyes which seem a bit worried. While she serves a couple of clients she glances worringly to the bold guy with the bag.
But what can she do? Push an alarm button? How quickly would help be here? I stand near the counter waiting my daughters. We exchange glances with the girl behind the countet as if we would tell eachother:”yes the guy is stealing but better to leave it”. I go to pay for the juice and milk. The bold guy is in front of me, he mumble something in Finnish. She seems to have also difficulties in understanding him. I look into his bag. I see a colorfull cotton cloth wrapped around a small metal black tube. To me it looks like a gun but I must be tired and imagine things as in movies. This is Helsinki after all, the capital of the country that a recent Newsweek ranking has declared the best in the world in terms of quality of life and safety/security. Well it does not seems so down here.
We leave the shop and Its people slowly sipping their coffees. A guy stops us to ask 50 cents. When I start to look for the change in my pocket he asks 2 €. I grow tense. A coin falls from my hand to the floor. I give him 1€ and we leave. He shouts after us that I am lucky to have two girls, his mother, he says, had 15 “fucking” boys.
We get into the train and start our trip East to Karelia, leaving this hidden people behind us.
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Summer 2010 – inflight
We just started our descent into Manila. Pressure is changing in the cabin. This the first leg of the long journey home, or better said to our homelands. We will fly tonight to Helsinki via Hong Kong, then after 10 days we will go to Italy. That will be the first time for Venla who is now 3 and 1/2 and the third time for Olga.
Olga has been worried about travelling to Italy. She is afraid that people will not understand her and that she will not understand them. I wonder whether I said the same when I was a child. I guess she is discovering that people speak different languages in different places. She knows Finnish and English well and I hope those few days in Italy will make her realize how much Italian she knows as well.
Discovering is starting for her.
Yesterday evening we counted the countries where she has been or has lived: 9 (most in SEA) while she is now 6. not bad for a young traveller. her sister catchin up quickly.
Arnaldo posted this using BlogPress from my iPhone