Sunray

Uncategorised



Friday 6:30 in the morning. There has been thunders during the night. I am awake but keep my eyes closed to try hold to the last moments of sleep. It is raining and the air is pleasantly cool. I sit up, look outside of the window. The familiar garden of the Swedish Camp. House N. 2 in front of us. The badmington court has already some paddles. Rain drops draw circles in them.
We eat breakfast. The rain is heavier now and we phone to the kindergarten to tell us when the school bus will be close to home to bring Olga and Venla at the right time. The phone rings and I go out with the girls. Carry Venla in the carry bag, holding Olga in one hand and the umbrella in the other. It is all a bit shaky and we get quite wet. Outside the gate of the camp the flooding has already started. I have to take Olga in my lap and walk through ankles high water. It is 8:15. I go back home, change t-shirt and start to work. I am reading about bovine TB in Ethiopia and my mind wanders to a country I have never been trying to imagine what the life of communities living of pastoralism is.

A go downstairs at around 10:00 to make some tea. The phone rings and it is Loan, our nanny, who says she cannot come to work because in her house water is at knee level. While I talk with her, I look outside the window and see that there is water in front of our door and under the two harmchairs we have outside. I see my flip flops, which I left outside yesterday evening, are floating away. The staff working at the Camp is walking from house to house, with their rain proof ponchos. The grass between us and House N. 2 is dry only in the middle, the highest point, all the rest flooded at ankle level. The drainage system cannot cope with all this water and the level in the garden rises.

It is not all the time strong rain, but most of the time. There are very short moments where the rain seem to reduce, only to start again even more strongly. There is no wind and the feeling is of km of clouds full of water hanging above our heads.

At 10:30 the staff of the Camp rings our door bell. I open and a man is there with bricks and cement. He need to build a barrier to the rising water, otherwise we will get soon water in our floor. He works quickly, but by the time he put the last brick of the two level barrier, water has reached the floor level. The cement is not dry enough and some water starts to get in. At 11:00 there is a truce. The rain reduces and in on hour the water is below the door level again. The sky is still heavy, though. I try to get back with my mind to Ethiopia and pastoralism without much success.

At 12:15 the girls come home. The bus had to manage the flooded streets near the Camp, but is high enough. Olga says that there is also water in her school, which is next to one of the many lakes of this town.

I phone Katja who is stocked in UNDP office which goes regularly under water with any heavy rain. This time, however, it is more serious. Water at the front door is knee high. She tries the next road at the right corner and it get even higher, almost hips level. She phones home saying she will not come back. At 13:30 the heavy rain starts again and will continue until after 23:00. Katja manages to get home at 16:30. Kim Ma, the large road which links this part of the town with the centre is ok. It is a bit higher than the narrow streets that depart from it to enter the intricate labyrinth which is typical of this town. Those are flooded.

Is getting dark early today. At 17:00 the water flows directly from the road into the Camp. We live in the north-west corner, which is a bit lower, so the stream reaches our doorstep. It rises. The men from the Camp come to check the situation and put some more cement on the brick at the door. Our neighbor has already brought furniture upstairs and we do the same. The water has reached the first brick level and is rising quickly. I have a look behind the house, water is between ankle and knee level but not leaking into the kitchen and dining room yet. They come again to check the door and they decide to put another brick level for the night. The cement, however, had not enough time to dry and water is leaking from underneath the bricks. We manage with towels and mop. The biggest problem comes when the pipe below of the sink in the toilet downstairs starts to leak. More than a leak, is a like a spring of sewage water which has reached the level of the floor. Water comes up quickly and we do not manage to stop. They come with some special plastic/plastiline after 30 minutes and close the pipe. It works and we manage to collect some of the water on the floor which is really stinky. Katja and the girls with our guests Evelina and Anna, go to eat upstairs. I try to collect water and dry it underneath furnitures. So far is not too bad, but what if it does not stop raining? I check the BBC weather forecast and they say heavy rain until Sunday!

I go outside and look at the simple houses on the other side of the Camp wall. Some have no glass on windows and they were built more or less illegally. They may not have a proper drainage system. How do people do in villages or the older part of the town. How do they do in Bangladesh when this happen s so often and is much worse than this? Is this due to our CO2 emissions? is this also due to the fact I fly so much lately? Do I need to carry water upstairs? Food? Will it be the same tomorrow? What happens when water reaches the plugs in the walls? All sorts of thoughts come to my mind.

I go upstairs. Play a bit with the girls. They are almost ready to sleep. Olga has cried. She feels the tension. The rain which was so funny in the early afternoon is no longer so. I talk with Katja and we remember our wooden house in Kampong Thom. It was on stilts as the Khmer houses are and not in danger of flooding. There were of course heavy monsoon rains, with heavy winds, water coming in between the wooden plates of from the wooden shutters, but they never lasting very long. I experienced something like this only in 1995 when doing the civil service in Italy and when the five of us were called to a village to help strengthening the huge dike of the Po river who was at his highest. I remember standing at the bottom of the dike, in the rain, climbing up in my wellingtons the 5-6 meters high dike, reach the top and see that the rive was no more than half a meters below me. I could not see the other side. So wide it was. We carried many sand bags to close wholes under the dike which was at risk of breaking. I remember my friend Aurelio who took control of a contingent of very young army conscripts shouting to them that he was an architect and he knew how to do with this. I did not bother commenting that actually engineers build dikes, not architects.

I go to check a last time downstairs. Walk to the door water is slowly spilling to the floor of the living room, but not too much so I leave it. Walk to the kitchen and feel water on my feet. Go out, and call for one of the men who are here in standby. He comes and put some of that magic plastic around the bottom of the pipe of the kitchen sink but is a bit late. Water slowly comes in. At least this does not smell. He is tired. Says he his sorry for this but cannot do more. No need to be sorry. I wonder how is with his house. He has been here the whole day helping these useless foreigners, but what about his house? He says water has come in there as well. I do not feel too good about this.

Try a last dry up and go upstairs. if tomorrow morning the living room and kitchen are flooded we will deal with it. Sleep. Hear the rain. Hear the clouds. Still some lightning. How can it rain so much? Fall asleep. Wake up. Is still dark. Look outside the window. No more rain, but the whole Camp looks like a lake, reflecting windows lights. No rain. Let’s hope it holds until the morning. I am up again around 5:15. Emerging daylight. Little rain. No more water on the ground! I imagine walking downstairs and feel after the last step, water at my ankle. But it is just my imagination. When I go down, the floor is almost dry. Water outside has gone. Few plastic bottles, cans, and plastic bag litter the garden of the Camp, but they tell us that maybe the worst is over.

It continues to rain the whole morning of Saturday, but never as strong as yesterday. I see a shy sunray at about 15:00 reflected on our house door. We walk in the afternoon nearby the Camp, many roads still flooded and many people working to dry their shops and restaurants. It has been the heaviest rain in two decades for this town. 24 people died in Vietnam for yesterday rain, several here in Ha Noi.

just published

Uncategorised

The Complexity of Decentralisation Reforms (Paperback)
by Arnaldo Pellini

This book analyses the characteristics of community participation in Cambodian rural schools. It looks at the spaces for participation created by the decentralisation reforms that the government of Cambodia has undertaken in the education sector through two main policies: school clustering and Priority Action Programme. While institutionalised spaces of participation created by these policies are relatively new, Cambodian communities, despite twenty five years of political turmoil, have traditionally provided support to schools through school associations. The study refers to bonding, bridging, and institutional social capital to explore, respectively, the characteristics of the horizontal links between community members as well as different forms of collective action, and the vertical links between community, schools and local government institutions. The analysis should be especially useful to academics, researchers, policy makers, and development practitioners involved and interested in the complexity of the link between participation and local governance reforms.

Available at www.amazon.de and www.amazon.co.uk

Singapore 6:59am

Uncategorised

Landed one hour ago from Johannesburg. The trip started in Dar es Salaam at 7:25 am local time. From Tanzania to Singapore is like a time journey. From the dark streets of Dar to the lights of Singapore. From the Dar airport to Singapore world’s hub.
This was my first trip to Sub Sahara Africa and I have to get my thoughts together. I saw just a tiny tiny part of it, though I did compare it all the time with the Asia I know: Cambodia and Vietnam. It is a way to put in perspective what I saw during the week in Dar. Travelling and living abroad is good for the spirit, but the longer you do that the more you lose that kind of childish and worried excitement that I felt the first time I step out of the sliding doors of an airport in the developing world, in New Delhi.
Dar. Africa. At this early time of the day I see snapshots of Dar, people, dala dala (minibuses and vans). Like a slide presentation set on random access to the picture stored in my brain. The familiar music in the busses. The handicraft seller at the Mogweni bus stop calling me rafiki (friend) and bargaining hard to keep the price of the gift I bought high. Her loud laughing when I suggested my price. The incredible colours of the fabric of the tailors’ shops. The large paved roads and the dusty alleys like in Phnom Penh. The large campus of the University of D’Salaam where I worked with a group of economists. What I learned about the transition of Tanzania from state controlled economy and today’s market orientation. The struggle to move up on the development ladder. The three young men I crossed on way to the bus stop. Their red towels-blankets. Their long hairs and their distinctive features that made them so different from the people of the town. In my limited knowledge I thought they were masai. Dr. Rutasitara the team leader of the economic research project we are supporting. His smile and articulated description on how the project is progressing and its challenges. His office at the university, the office and the position of head of the department that is taking a lot of time from his main interest: research on international trade. The hundreds of Ma and PhD theses piled in the small room. The thousands of exam paper to be reviewed. The smile of Francis, the driver who picked me up at the airport when I arrived and told him he was the first person I met in my first trip to Tanzania and Sub-Sahara Africa. The sunsets. Blue sky and stretched soft clouds at the horizon. Its uniqueness as unique were the sunset in Kampong Thom on the green rice fields during monsoon season. The openness of the people and the minimum one hour contagious delays for meetings. And more…
Hakuna matata

Into the loop

Uncategorised

I have given up after three unsuccesfull attempts ot open a bank account at a NatWest branch down the road from the office of ODI where I work here in London. On Wednesday I give it a try with HSBC near the Parliament and Westminster. HSBC is called ‘ global bank’, meaning they have subsidiaries all over the world, they deal with customers from many countries, and I had heard that they provide the possibility to open a passport account. So I went, quite optimistic.

I met a nice lady who explained me everything. In order to open a bank account I need an address and a proof of address. The proof of address comes only from a BT bill, council tax, gas bill, electricity bill. I said that in order to get these bills, I need to fill a form which in all cases asks a bank account. The HSBC lady, answered: ‘yes, I know.’

So tried a different approach: what about a passport account? Can I open one? She answered, ’you need a passport and a proof of address?’ I said, ‘how?’ She answered. in passport or for example driving licence. I took them and showed that these documents do not show addresses: the passport is issues by the German Embassy in Phnom Penh (kind of suspicious), and the driving licence only mention the municipality where it was issued: Jyväskylä – Finland (difficult to pronounce, even more suspicious). She looked at them and said they would not do and said: ‘You cannot open a passport account’. She also started to smile. Me too, I must admit.

I tried a third approach. ‘Isn’t this the’ global bank’?’. ‘Yes’, she said. ‘ So what f I open an account to your HSBC branch in Ha Noi where I will be next week and then come back to you to transfer the account here?’ ‘That’s not possible, you would still need a proof of address here in London. You could only withdraw money from the wall.’ You seem to be in a loop’, she finally said with a smile, capturing in 7 nice words how I felt in that moment.

Lost words, words found

Uncategorised

I recently found, in the bookshelves of friends’ house, a book I had forgotten. I actually thought it was in my old room in Italy. I found it in Switzerland. It travelled, now I remember, from Italy, to Spain, to Germany, to Switzerland and it is now with me here in London.
The book title, in Italian, is ‘La Donna di Porto Pym’. The author is Antonio Tabucchi. A writer I used to love a lot, in the same way one loves writers who are linked to a specific part of our life, a journey, an encounter, memories.
I have not been reading books of him for several years now, but I have the impressions and feelings that his books gave me fifteen years ago. Blurred memories where the stories he narrates are mixed with past events.
Tabucchi is also the author of ‘Notturno Indiano’, ‘Indian Nocturne’, a short book that had a great influence on me. Printed on nice yellowish paper. Almost squared size. With a rough paper as it they had not finished the work of making it smooth for the print. Nice to feel on the finger tips. It was recommended by a German friend living in Munich. A book we exchange as a present among few friends for Christmas and birthdays and who gave to two if us (Gennaro and me) the idea of plan our first trip outside Europe to India. We were 23 years old and together with three more friends we bought our rucksacks and set for the great trip. We bought India’s Lonely Planet guide, which at that time was available only in English language and from selected bookshops in Milan. The same guide, the main character of ‘Indian Nocturne’, flips through in the cab along Marine Drive in Bombay, upon his arrival to India. We were characters of a story (our stories) and travellers. I felt partly in the book and partly on a great adventure.
I could not say it then, but can now: that journey and discovery with all its difficulties, its inexperience, its moments on the roof of a night bus from Kathmandu down to the Indian border in Sunauli, changed me and contributed to the fact that I am now here in London, writing these words, on this laptop, thinking about going back to Katja and the girls to Ha Noi in two weeks time.
I open the first page of ‘La Donna di porto Pym’. Strange how this books has reminded me of the other, ‘Indian Nocturne’. I open the fist page. On the top-right corner a date: 30.12.87. It’s my mother handwriting and it’s her birthday. I cannot recall if it was me who went to the bookshop to buy it as a present or whether it was her who went to buy it for herself. I imagine a old foggy day in my hometown. I flip thorough the short stories and see the one where a man describes in great detail for three pages a famous Van Gogh painting in a museum to a friend, and only in the last couple of lines we discover that this fiend is actually blind. Then another short story: ‘Persone Felici’ (‘Happy People’). The young researcher and the literature professor. They are sitting at the terrace of a small restaurant looking over the ocean (I imagine Portugal). She is young, he is much older. The evening is mild. The ocean moves slowly along its currents and waves. The line of the horizon hidden by a thin haze. The sun already below it, but still spreading his fading light to the sky. The white table cloth, the typical appetizers: black olives, goat cheese, white bread. A glass of white wine for him, just water for her. They do not seem to talk much. They look at the ocean. They do not seem too happy. She is accompanying him for a conference. They talk only few words. Then she tells him she is pregnant. The tension has gone. Words are flown away by the wind and there are only their eyes looking at each other to tell how happy they are.